How to throw it straight.
(as printed in Bowling This Month)

Okay. You have decided that you want to be a GBOT (Great Bowler Of Today). You have made the commitment to learn a release that will make the ball go straight on any condition. You go to the lanes to practice and your "kill shot" still hooks. What happened? Why won’t it go straight? You ask "What can I do to kill it more?" Lets back up and analyze the entire situation.

Of course, the easiest way to learn how to throw it straight is to seek a professional instructor. An objective pair of eyes is very helpful. But I am writing this under the assumption that you will try to learn this on your own. So, let us proceed.

Are you going to try and use your strike ball? If so, the release must result in a purely end over end roll. With a reactive or particle ball on a dry lane, there is no room for error in the hand action. Any side roll or spin at all will result in an enormous amount of hook on a dry lane. I have seen a few GBOTS who can do this, but most use a spare ball of plastic or rubber. With a plastic or rubber ball, there is room for error in the hand action.

Now, as to how to affect that end over end release and make it go straight. First, you must untrain your hand and unlearn or re-teach yourself how not to hook it. The easiest way to learn this is to put your spare ball and your other equipment in the bag and proceed to the nearest rack of house balls. Try to find one that is the same weight and same size or slightly larger fingers and thumbhole. Don’t worry about the span if you can’t find one that is close. Plastic or rubber will do. Now go to the foul line and make yourself comfortable. You will be there for a while. Remember, we are unlearning our hook release, so we don’t want to do anything associated with that release….like a stance, pushaway, approach or power step. We want to isolate your hand action as much as possible and this is the easiest way to do that. Just take one step and deliver the ball onto the lane and do not, I repeat, do not lift, turn, spin, horse, crank, yank or torque that house ball. Just get it off your hand safely, just like you did the first several times you went bowling. You will feel stupid and embarrassed standing at the line doing this. Don’t worry. It will be worth it if you can become a GBOT. Practice rolling this hunk of rubber or plastic, which might be older than you are, with a palm-forward, thumb out release. If you can make it roll over the thumb and finger holes, then you are doing it right. Those bumping sounds as it goes down the lane are positive reinforcement. Any track parallel and near the grip will work. One mental swing thought that might help you is to lead with your little finger. We aren’t using targets yet, but visualize your little finger as a pointer toward your target…when you get one. Try to do this before the lanes have been dressed or after a late league when the lanes are at their driest. If the oil is fresh, then throw it in the driest part of the lane, except to check where the ball is tracking by occasionally rolling it in the oil. Remember, we are trying to achieve a shot that will go straight, even on dry lanes. If you have picked up a ball with no distinguishing characteristics, place a piece of white tape just above the finger holes. This will help you monitor the rotation as it rolls down the lane. When you have successfully rolled it end over end 25-30 times, then try it with your spare ball…from the foul line. If you still are having trouble getting a clean release, you might now be able to tell how to tweak your grip layout in order to get a cleaner exit. Ask your ball driller to help you here. If you regress into somewhat of a hook release, go back to the house ball and train some more. Important note: Do not settle for a grip that inhibits an end over end release just because you don’t want to take the time and trouble to get the ball plugged and redrilled. If you do, then you have not made that commitment we talked about.

Lets talk about drilling. There are two schools of thought on how to have this spare ball drilled. The conventional theory is to drill it just like your strike ball so that the feel is the same. If you are throwing your normal release at spares, this theory sounds logical. But we are not using our normal release, so an alternate drilling might be necessary. If your finger and thumbs pitches are such that you can release it end over end, then there’s no need to redrill. But many bowlers have pitches on their thumb to encourage side roll, so end over end is practically impossible. My own thumb pitch would not allow a clean end over end release, so I searched for an alternative I decided to try more reverse(1/2" instead of 1/4") and less away(0 instead of 1/8"). This worked. It allowed me to have a cleaner release. I drop a few, but those dropped shots still go straight and get the job done. Straight is straight, remember? I also now use a 7/16" bridge to give me a wider leverage base. This makes it easier for me to stay behind it and come straight up the back without any side roll. The span on one of your fingers may need to be adjusted so that you get equal pressure with both fingers. I use more away (1/2" instead of 1/8" on the fingers)…again allowing for a cleaner exit. This grip allowed me to roll the ball straight and I began to get curious about GBOTS spare ball grips. I began to ask them when bowling next to them or crossing with them in tournaments and I was surprised by the fact that very few used the exact same grip for their spare ball. . If you think about it, what is wrong with having a different grip for your spare shots? If you are using a different release, why is it so imperative to have the same feel? After a few years of experience "killing it", I’ve come to the conclusion that the same grip as my strike ball would encourage the same release, which is what we are trying to "unlearn". I would suggest to you that if the grip on your strike ball will not allow you to achieve an end over end roll that you try a different grip. Don’t be afraid to experiment. You might come up with another solution of your own.

Now, back to the lanes. So now you have successfully rolled a straight shot with your spare ball 25-30 times. Ok, lets try it with the approach. Again, just roll it in the driest part of the lane. We are not ready for targets yet. Lets try to get used to that same straight ball release with our old hook ball approach. If you are easily bored, this could be difficult. Just take heart that with every successful end over end delivery, you are one step closer toward untraining your hand action and one step closer to being a GBOT.

Don’t forget to take breaks periodically to avoid getting tired. Also, each time you come back from a break view it as an opportunity to test your progress and test your muscle memory. When you have successfully rolled it straight with your spare ball 25-30 consecutive times…STOP. Don’t bowl any more that day. You must rest up for combining your newfound hand action with looking at a target and actually making a spare. When you return to practice again, test your muscle memory first by seeing if you can roll at least ten end over end shots. If not, then go back to the foul line until you get it back. Once you are confident that you can execute this shot, try shooting a 10 pin. Use your old target if you played no hook before. If not, then you will have to find a new target. Hopefully, you will be doing this on dry lanes again. If not, be sure and use the tape on your spare ball so you can check the rotation. If there is oil in the middle, the lane may not point out a misdelivered shot like a dry lane would. Do not throw strike balls at all during this exercise. Try some 7 pin shots. You will definitely have to find a new target for this one. I recommend the 3^rd arrow from the left for both lefthanders and right handers. This is the part of the lane where you can usually find some oil, even on a tournament shot that has broken down. You want to use this part of the lane in case you accidentally squeeze one under the pressure of live competition. It might cover up your mistake.

Now that you are comfortable with your newfound release, try intermingling it with your hook release. Throw a strike ball, then throw a 10 pin. Throw a strike ball, then throw a 7 pin. Throw two strike balls, then throw a 10 pin, etc. Don’t worry about what spares you might actually be leaving, you are just testing your muscle memory. You might be striking on every full rack. Just mix in the kill shots so that your hand and body can get used to the changes. Try to follow up this practice with another using basically the same drills. This time, however, try to add adjustments for other spares such as the 4, 4-7 (no, they are not the same), 6, 6-10 (they are not the same either), 2-4-5 (for righties), 2-4-7 (for lefties), and washouts. Use full racks. This will help your concentration.

Now we are ready to start using targets for individual spares. I have a different methodology than many instructors. Most will teach you to use the same target and move your feet to adjust from say, a 6 pin and a 10 pin. I think this is fine on the left side spares for righthanders (though for a different reason) but for right side spares, I move my target and use the same starting point. I think other systems work pretty well, but let me explain my reasoning for having a different system for spares on opposite sides of the lane. When shooting right side spares, I want to stay as far left as possible because of the extra angle which helps keep my "chop" percentage low and to stay in the heavy oil as much as possible. When shooting spares on the left side, I want foremost to stay in the oily part of the lane, to cover up accidental lift or turn, and secondly to improve the angle. I could get farther left (6^th arrow) for say a 2-4-5 but then I would be, many times, in the left-handed track area. Then I would have the same problem as shooting a 3-6 down the second arrow from the right (not enough oil to cover up a missed release). So, for right-side spares, I stand in the same place and move my target. I use the 10 pin for a baseline shot. This changes from house to house because I want to stand as far left and look as far left as I can. The width of the ball return determines where exactly that is. My target is usually between the 21^st board and the 25^th at the joints or splices. Once I determine my ten pin starting spot and target, for a 6-10, I move my target one board left. For a 6, 2 boards left, for a 3-10, 2 1/2 boards left, and 3-6-10, 3 boards. But for left-side spares, I use the same target (third arrow from the left) and move my feet. For example, I use the 7 pin as my base and move my feet 2 boards left and use the same target for a 4 pin. For a 4-7, 1 1/2 boards. For a 2-5 or a washout, I move my feet 6 boards left and still use the same target. You get the idea. I’m not proposing that you copy my system exactly, just try to use the same philosophy. You will work out(hopefully with a coach) the subtle nuances according to your ability to repeat approaches, how much you drift (or not), and the width of your body. All of these factors will help determine exactly where you will stand in order for a well executed "kill shot" to convert the spare you are attempting. Just try to remember that you want to finish as far across lane as is comfortable for right-side spares (for righthanders). This will give you the most deflection for baby splits and other corner clusters where chopping the front pin(s) off is a danger. This will increase your percentage of makes on slightly misthrown shots. I suggest lefties use the 3^rd arrow from the left for right and left side spares, because that part of the lane retains oil the longest on most conditions. If you are a left handed and bowl where there isn’t enough oil in the middle of the lane, then shoot all left side spares from as far right as possible.

Even today, with all the professional coaching available, I still see relatively good bowlers using incorrect strategy to pick up spares and splits. I see many bowlers shoot baby splits down the outside part of the lane. You never see a GBOT rolling it down the edge to convert a baby split. You want to shoot 2-4-5s and 2-5s(for righties) from as far left as comfortable (while staying in heavy oil) for the same reason. Less angle means less chops. Just think about it this way. If you are a righthander and someone bet you that you could not chop a 3-6, how would you play the shot in order to maximize your chances to successfully chop off the 3 pin. You would probably try it from the right side of the lane with a lot of hook. So if you were to bet that you could convert it, wouldn’t the opposite strategy be the wisest course.

Before we go, let me impart the same advice I give to every student I work with. At least every six weeks, preferably once a month, go to the lanes and bowl 5 games of nothing but spare shots. Shoot 7s, 10s, 3-6-10s and all of your most common leaves. Make a game of it. Play lowball with a friend. Make it fun. Do not throw your strike ball. By devoting this time and effort to practicing spares, you not only get some needed practice but you will be building up and reinforcing the importance of spare shooting in your own mind. After a few sessions, you will start to look forward to it. When other bowlers stroll in and see what you are doing and scoff, you will have a warm glow of inner confidence in knowing that you are taking the next step toward becoming a GBOT.

Next time we will show you just how accurate you have to be to be a great spare shooter and at what spares you should still throw a hook.

Jim King has long been an accomplished bowler and coach in the South Texas area. He was the youngest certified instructor in America at the age of twelve. Jim has run bowling clinics and given individual and group lessons to thousands of bowlers. He is a former PBA member and the author of 17 300s and 16 800s, including the highest series shot by a Senior, 867 in 1998. He is currently the tournament director for the Southeast region of The Track/SASBA Senior Tour. He most recently made news in San Antonio by winning the 1999 Iron Man Championship in runaway fashion. Jim writes a monthly column entitled "Jim King's Bowling World" for The Bowler's Paddock in San Antonio and Bowling News in Virginia; Bowling News in Burbank, CA, Dallas, TX, and Little Rock, AR; Bowler's Review in Winter Springs, FL; The Pinbuster in St. Pete Beach, FL; Stars and Stripes in Austin, TX; Ten Pin Alley in Las Vegas, NV, Desert Bowler in Phoenix, AZ; and Bowling World in San Jose, CA.  Jim is the editor of Bowling This Month magazine. 

Jim King 
P.O. Box 680414 
San Antonio, TX 78268-0414 
jking68@attglobal.net

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